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Friday February 13, 2004

Wet winters cry out for a warm meal in a bowl — soup

by louise fiszer

I can’t think of a better time of year to offer some wonderful recipes for a hearty bowl of soup. The damp chill of a wet winter cries out for warm comfort food, and for me the ultimate one-pot meal of soup is the answer.

I particularly like to make Old World soups, those that have been around for centuries, shrouded in mystery, lore and full of aromatic spices and ethnic ingredients.

Of borscht, Isaac Bashevis Singer quotes Aunt Yentl: “In a pinch I can make from a chicken soup a borscht, but to make from a borscht a chicken soup, this is beyond any cook.”

Of gulyas (goulash) soup, legendary chef and restaurateur Karoly Gundel once explained, “Most foreigners call all dishes with paprika gulyas, but only lamb and caraway seed make it authentic.”

Israeli lentil soup differs from community to community with the only common denominator being lentils. Soup makers of Moroccan descent consider cilantro essential, while Eastern European Jews often add sliced hot dogs.

Goulash Soup | Serves 8

3 Tbs. oil
2 medium onions, thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/8 tsp. cayenne
2 Tbs. sweet Hungarian paprika
1 Tbs. caraway seed
1 green bell pepper, seeded and thinly sliced
1 red bell pepper, seeded and thinly sliced
2 lbs. lamb shoulder, cut into 1-inch cubes
3 Tbs. tomato paste
8 cups beef stock
salt and pepper

In a large heavy pot, heat oil over medium-high heat. Cook onions and garlic until soft, about 5 minutes. Stir in the cayenne, paprika, caraway and bell peppers. Cook until peppers become soft, about 6 minutes.

Add the lamb; cook until it loses its raw color, stirring frequently. Stir in tomato paste and stock. Bring to a boil, turn down to a simmer and cook about 1 hour or until lamb is tender. Taste for salt and pepper and serve.

Beet & Cabbage Borscht | Serves 8

1 large head cabbage, shredded
4 large beets, peeled and sliced
2 large onions, thinly sliced
28-ounce can tomatoes, coarsely chopped
1/4 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
1/4 cup fresh orange juice
2 tsp. caraway seed
salt and pepper
sour cream
orange slices

Combine cabbage, beets, onions and tomatoes in a large heavy pot. Add 2 quarts water and simmer 1 hour. Stir in the sugar, vinegar, orange juice and caraway seed and cook another 15 minutes. Taste for salt and pepper. Serve with a dollop of sour cream topped with an orange slice.

Lentil Soup with Greens & Noodles | Serves 6 to 8

2 Tbs. olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
4 oz. beet greens, coarsely chopped
1 Tbs. cumin seeds, toasted and crushed
1/2 tsp. ground coriander
11/2 cups lentils
2 cups chopped tomatoes
1/4 cup tomato paste
4 cups water
6 oz. fine egg noodles, cooked
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
salt and pepper

In a large pot, heat oil over medium-high heat. Cook onion, garlic and greens until wilted, about 5 minutes. Stir in cumin, coriander and lentils and cook another minute until fragrant. Add tomatoes, tomato paste and water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer 30 minutes. Stir in the noodles.

Remove from heat and stir in the lemon juice. Taste for salt and pepper and serve.

Louise Fiszer is a Palo Alto cooking teacher, author and the co-author of “Jewish Holiday Cooking.” Her columns alternate with those of Rebecca Ets-Hokin. Questions and recipe ideas can be sent to j. or to loufiszer@aol.com.

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