by jan birnbaum
In Baton Rouge, La., I grew up with a rich experience at Passover. My mother, Judith, Aunt Ruth and Aunt Sarah would all cook a most memorable dinner.
As was my custom, I would sit on the counter in the corner and watch the magic. I am certain that these and the many special dinners that represented family to me later led to my professional career as a chef.
What a wonderful feeling to have an extended family steeped in tradition with the maternal history of several generations and several countries coming together for this important meal.
As life would have it, each of these famous women cooks would leave the earth. Then it was up to me to continue this event. For eight years, we held Passover at my restaurant in Calistoga. Now each year I invite hundreds of friends for both nights of Passover to join us in reading from the Haggadah and a dinner in the spirit of Passover.
The menu looks like this:
A Jewish Antipasto:
A Plate of Jan’s Homemade Gefilte Fish with Pickled Carrots, Chopped Liver, Eggs and Onions; Crispy Gribenes and Tapenade; Pickled Beets With Matzo Meal Crackers
Columbia Reserve Semillon, Columbia Valley 1997
* * *
Judith’s Chicken Soup with Knaidlach Cambria “ Katherine’s” Chardonnay Santa Maria 2001
* * *
Honey-Red Wine Marinated Apple Salad with Spiced Pecans, and California Raisins
Robert Mondavi Pinot Noir Carneros 2000
* * *
Nana’s Braised Brisket with Aunt Ruth’s Paprika Potatoes, Wild Mushrooms and Fennel Horseradish Salad
Platters of Tzimmes with Prunes and Jason’s Raisins
* * *
Gooseberry Clafoutis
Here’s my recipe for Chopped Liver Jan’s Way With Chopped Eggs and Onions. The seasoning mix will yield more than you need for the chopped liver. Keep it and use it in other cooking.
Enjoy your seder.
Chopped Liver Jan’s Way
3 lbs. duck livers
1/2 cup brandy
4 Tbs. mixed chopped herbs (parsley, oregano, rosemary)
2-4 Tbs. Jan’s Seasoning Mix (see below)
2 large onions chopped fine
3 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 lb. rendered duck or chicken fat
1/4 tsp. lemon zest, chopped fine
4 egg yolks
4 Tbs. freshly chopped parsley
2 tsp. freshly chopped thyme
Mix the livers in brandy and chopped herbs and marinate for 2 days. Place the livers in a strainer to remove some of the liquid. Season the livers with 1-2 Tbs. spice mix. In a large sauté pan quickly sear the livers in a few Tbs. of the chicken fat. Do not crowd the pan. Cook them at a high temperature so that the outside gets crusty but the inside remains medium-rare. Do not overcook. Remove to a flat pan and refrigerate to stop the cooking. Let them cool to just below room temperature. Don’t let them get too cold.
In a few more Tbs. of the fat, caramelize the onions and the garlic. Season them with a tsp. of the spice mix. Meanwhile melt the rest of the chicken fat. While the fat is hot, add the hot onions and garlic and whisk the yolk in. Be careful to cook the yolks but not scramble them. Grind the livers and onions through fine holes on a meat grinder. To the ground livers, add the zest, parsley, thyme and 1-2 Tbs. spice mix. Refrigerate for at least 3 hours. Overnight is best.
Chopped Eggs and Onions | Serves 8
8 eggs
1 large or 2 medium onions diced
4 Tbs. rendered duck or chicken fat
kosher salt and fresh ground white pepper to taste
1 Tbs. freshly chopped parsley
Cover 8 eggs in cold water with some salt and over medium heat bring them to a gentle boil. Allow them to boil for 6 minutes. Remove them from the fire and allow them to sit in the water for 8 minutes. Run cold water over them for several minutes. Carefully peel the boiled eggs. Chop them and reserve.
Cook the onions in the fat until soft but not colored, gently over medium heat. Fold the chopped eggs, onions in fat, chopped parsley, and salt and pepper together.
Keep the eggs and onions separate from the chopped liver to serve. Accompany with lots of matzah.
Jan’s Seasoning Mix | Makes 3/4 cup
8 Tbs. kosher salt
1 Tbs. ground black pepper
1 tsp. ground white pepper
2 Tbs. paprika
2 tsp. cayenne pepper
1 tsp. ground coriander seed
1/2 tsp. ground cumin
1/2 tsp. chili powder
1 tsp. dry mustard
Combine all ingredients.
Chef Jan Birnbaum, who began his career in New Orleans with chef Paul Prudhomme, is planning a waterfront venture in San Francisco with Pat Kuleto and Mark Franz. Birnbaum is also chef/partner in Sazerac Restaurant in Seattle and recently sold his Catahoula Restaurant in the Napa Valley to work on his new venture.
CopyrightJ, the Jewish news weekly of Northern California