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Friday May 27, 2005

Ashkelon transcends the sands of time

by ann goldberg
jerusalem post service

Spring is an ideal time to sample the delights of the magnificent sand dunes on the Nitzanim beach between Ashdod and Ashkelon.

My family and I spent one of our recent vacations climbing, rolling, falling and playing in the deliciously warm, soft sand, which appeared to stretch to infinity. Whether you’re 5 or 55, whether you can climb to the top of the giant sand dune or just collapse halfway up a small one, whether you can run down, walk, slide, or even fall, the sand protects you and cradles you gently. These sand dunes are a real family pleasure.

But sand dunes are just one of the many highlights to be found in this often overlooked area.

The city of Ashkelon is one of the oldest cities in the world. More than 5,000 years old, it has been important to all the conquerors of Israel throughout the ages. No matter who the ruler was, this southern sea-gate, situated on the Via Maris (the Sea Road between Damascus and Egypt) was of vital strategic significance and so it was conquered, destroyed, reconquered, built up, attacked and destroyed many times during its long history.

One of the five Philistine cities mentioned in the Bible, Ashkelon is the city associated with the story of Samson and Delilah. It was always a thorn in the side of Israel and when King Saul and his son Jonathan were killed in battle against the Philistines in Gilboa.

Ashkelon was probably never in Jewish hands. Extensive excavations have been carried out over the years, many under the auspices of Harvard University. One of the most important finds was a bronze and silver calf, estimated to be more than 3,500 years old and probably one of the oldest artifacts unearthed. According to legend, Ashkelon was King Herod’s birthplace, which could explain why he constructed so many important buildings there, including his summer palace.

Ashkelon’s strategic significance was also the cause of its downfall. During the 200 years of the Crusades, between 1100 and 1300, it was tossed between Muslim and Crusader leaders. Eventually it was destroyed and left desolate for several centuries. The small Arab village of Majdal, to the east of Ashkelon’s ruins, was all that remained until the 20th century.

The entire southern Negev was the front-line during Israel’s War of Independence after the state was declared in 1948. The Egyptian army invaded immediately with the intention of making a two-pronged attack, heading for Jerusalem and Tel Aviv simultaneously. If the few fighters on the southern front hadn’t held the Egyptian army back, it could have been the end of the fledgling Jewish state. There are many tales of heroism of the Givati Brigade, which suffered terrible losses as it held off the invading army. The Egyptians, under the command of their soon-to-be president, Gamal Abdel Nasser, unable to progress any further, settled into the little village of Majdal. Miraculously, a concentrated attack by Israel’s few forces caught the Egyptians by surprise and they retreated, leaving the local inhabitants of Majdal to surrender to the Israeli army, who brought Jewish rule to this desolate area which had known just about every civilization.

Today in Ashkelon’s Old City, the area that was the Arab town of Majdal still contains some old courtyards and alleyways, as well as the Ashkelon Museum, located inside an old Arab hotel. It houses archaeological finds from the town’s dramatic history and a replica of the famous silver calf. The audiovisual presentation about the area’s history helps put things in chronological perspective.

Next to the museum is the Khan Art Gallery, and these two buildings are all that is left in the old part of Ashkelon. To unify the ancient with the modern, a trendy shopping mall has been built nearby.

There is also an outdoor museum located in the Afridar quarter, where you can see, among other artifacts, two well-preserved marble Roman burial coffins with depictions of hunting and battle scenes, as well as other sculptures and columns.

To take a break from the ardors of sightseeing, Ashkelon’s beach is an alluringly long, beautiful stretch of sand and water, perfect for swimming, sunbathing and beach games. Located there as well is the popular Ashkeluna water park, which can keep the whole family happy for hours. The nearby marina, one of the largest in Israel, holds up to 600 boats and is the venue for international yachting races and regattas.

If tennis is your game, there are plenty of available courts at the largest tennis club in Israel, with a beautiful backdrop of the sea for relaxing between sets.

One place not to be missed is the national park, at the southern end of the beach. There, a great number of layers of ancient remains have been unearthed and left in place. You can walk along the Crusader walls, have a picnic next to a group of Greek statues, and let your children play hide-and-seek among the Canaanite fortifications. There is a Byzantine church, a basilica with a sculpture garden, several ancient wells and plenty of shady wooded areas in which to relax. This expansive green park is the perfect place to visit, even if you aren’t looking for historical remains.

ISRAEL IN THE GARDENS

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