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Friday January 25, 2008

When choosing a bridal gown, begin with the fabric

by sharon mosley
copley news service

If you’ve ever wandered into a bridal salon, you’ve probably thought you were on a different planet. The words bandied about — especially describing the fabrics these dresses are made of — sound like a foreign language for most of us.

In her book, “Vera Wang on Weddings,” the influential fashion designer famous for her luxurious wedding dresses provides a wealth of knowledge on bridal elegance.

When you start talking about bridal gown designs, it all starts with fabric, says Wang.

“In all cases, the fabric dictates the shape, drape and cut of a dress, as well as the time of day and season it can be worn,” she says. “Conversely, the choice of silhouette will impact the fabric selection, as the requirements for a lavish ball gown will differ greatly from those for a narrow column.”

Here are a few of Wang’s brief definitions for fabrics usually found in structured gowns:

Duchess satin and satin polyester. One of the most flattering fabrics for formal gowns, satin is stiff, opaque and shimmering — ideal for strict A-lines, full, gathered skirts, mermaid shapes or structured bustiers. It also serves as the perfect foundation for a beautiful lace gown.

Silk taffeta, silk radzmire, taffeta blends. Comes in a variety of weights, textures and weaves, and is light and airy so it requires a substantial foundation or multiple linings. Taffeta looks best when gathered for volume and always looks most luxurious in off-white.

Satin-faced organza. One of Wang’s preferred fabrics, organza is lighter in appearance and less opaque than duchess satin and has a subtle sheen or luster to it.

Tulle. Originally used for petticoats and underpinnings, tulle is often draped as a simple overlay or gathered into a full-skirted ballerina gown.

Brocades and woven jacquards. For formal weddings, these fabrics are extravagant and expensive, lending themselves to all types of embellishment, such as lace, embroidery, passementerie or beading.

Silk faille. A thick fabric that can be difficult to sew, but is suited to full, extravagant shapes.

Basket weaves. Lighter and crisper than more traditional fabrics like satin-faced organza, basket weave can be charming for less formal weddings.

Softer constructions are fabrics that lend themselves to more casual gowns that are more body-conscious, such as:

Silk crepe and crepe blends. Silk crepe is still one of the most popular fabrics for wedding and evening gowns since it can be worn draped and embellished or tailored and plain.

Silk charmeuse. Another glamorous fabric immortalized by Hollywood sirens like Jean Harlow in the 1930s. Due to its shine, it is best worn unadorned.

Georgette. A sheer, sensuous fabric that is easier to wear than jerseys or silk chiffon and requires a special lining due to its transparency.

Silk chiffon. Even sheerer than georgette, it comes in a variety of weights, finishes and transparencies.

Velvets. Silk velvet can look ravishing, says Wang, in white, ivory or the palest hint of color, regardless of the season.

Lace. For traditional brides, lace provides adornment and texture without beading or shine.

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