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Friday May 23, 2008

At Israeli farmers’ markets, taste the best of a gourmet country

by louise fiszer

In the past 15 years or so, farmers’ markets have proliferated abundantly across our country. While at one time they were considered a novelty, they now have become a familiar and bountiful source of weekly food.

In Israel outdoor markets or “shuks” have been an integral way of life for decades. Israeli cooks know that the best take-out cannot substitute for the role of the open markets. Not only can you find the essence of Israeli cuisine but you learn about the Israeli people and the land.

When I visit Israel I spend hours at Jerusalem’s Mahane Yehudah shuk, which was founded during the Ottoman period when Arabs from nearby areas came to sell their wares. There are rows and rows of fruit and vegetable stalls, and aromas of freshly baked pita, bagelach, baklava and crusty rolls permeate the air. Barrels of shiny olives glisten, ready for snacking or combining with the tasty sheep cheeses and goat cheeses at the next booth.

For a tourist like me, this market is a tease, since I can buy no more than a few pieces of this and that to sample, but while I’m walking through this marvelous maze I am constantly inspired to compose new recipes for my home kitchen.

Ka’ak (Bagelach)

Makes 8-10

1 Tbs. dry yeast

1 tsp. honey

53/4 cups flour

1 Tbs. salt

sesame seeds

Dissolve yeast with honey in 1/4 cup warm water. Let stand about 10 minutes or until foamy. In a large bowl, mix the flour with salt and add the yeast mixture and 31/4 cups water. Mix well and knead until dough becomes smooth and a bit sticky. Prepare apple-sized balls and allow to rise 30 minutes in a warm place. Make a hole in the center of each ball and stretch dough into a ring. Place on greased cookie sheet and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Bake in a preheated 375-degree oven for 20 minutes, then lower heat to 225 degrees and bake another 15 minutes.

Cold Summer Tomato Soup

Serves 4

1 lb. tomatoes, seeded

6 oz. plain yogurt or sour cream

1 large cucumber, peeled, seeded and cut into small chunks

1 small onion, quartered

1 tsp. fresh lemon juice

1 tsp. sugar or honey

salt and pepper to taste

Combine all ingredients in food processor or blender until almost smooth. Refrigerate overnight.

Green Bean, Olive and Feta Salad

Serves 4-6

4 sprigs fresh mint, chopped

11/2 lbs. green beans, cut into 2-inch pieces and cooked just until tender

1 cup walnut pieces, toasted

1 red onion, diced

1/2 cup pitted black olives, halved

1/2 cup feta cheese, crumbled

Dressing:

3⁄4 cup olive oil

1⁄4 cup vinegar or fresh lemon juice

salt and pepper to taste

1 clove garlic, minced

In a large bowl combine beans, walnuts, onion, olives, mint and feta cheese.

In a small bowl whisk together dressing ingredients. Toss with bean

mixture.

Louise Fiszer is a Palo Alto cooking teacher, author and the co-author of “Jewish Holiday Cooking.” Her columns alternate with those of Rebecca Ets-Hokin. Questions and recipe ideas can be sent to j. or to loufiszer@aol.com.

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